I love the Black HIlls of South Dakota. However, I don't get out there nearly as much as I would like. I haven't really been through the hills for probably about 6 years. So when this trip presented itself I was really excited that it would work out.
In total there were 11 of us from Sioux Falls that went out to the hills. We were riders of all ages and abilities out for an adventure. This was my first time riding the Mickelson Trail, and I was glad to have someone to share the trip with.
I rode with the late arrivals. I had to work late, and the highschooler of the trip had athletic practice later as well. All this to say we didn't get into Deadwood till about 12:30 AM MST. 1:30 AM back at home. It was a long trek across South Dakota, and being that it was mostly after dark the miles felt even longer. Oh and lest I forget. I realized about halfway across the state I had left my helmet at home on the table. Silly me. I guess I was just in such a hurry to get going I left it behind. A quick stop at the Rapid City Walmart, and we were back on our way.
After a "late" morning breakfast and checkout we arrived at the trail at about 8:00 AM and were ready to roll at about 8:30. As the Mickelson trail is in part maintained by the South Dakota department of Game, Fish, and Parks. Riders aged 12 and over need a trail pass. These can be picked up at many of the trail heads along the way. Trail passes are $4 per day and $15 for a year of access. Unlike other permitted trails I've seen. This trail is very well maintained and for such a small fee you get an incredible amount of natural value.
Mile 109
As we rolled out of Deadwood, I was excited. I had heard many exciting things about the trail. I wasn't sure what to expect, and the prospect of over 100 miles on a gravel trail were daunting. However, I had faith that it would be great and that in the end it would all work out. The climb out of Deadwood is one of the steepest parts of the trail. Now I would not consider myself the strongest climber out there. In fact I'm pretty open about how being a bigger person means there is more of you to haul up the hill. So we climbed and climbed. When I commented on how long this climb happened to be, I was greeted with a mischievous smile and told that while it was the steepest, it wasn't the longest climb of the day. That honor was yet to be bestowed.
Mile 99
Top of the first hill! Made it! From this point you actually look down the valley into the town of Lead. Now if you've ever made the trek out to the northern hills, you know Lead is nestled in some pretty steep slopes. If you haven't, picture yourself on a bike, looking up, and wondering why you thought this was fun. Ten miles in and the mood was still positive. I kept wondering if I thought it was better to have the mileage markers count up or count down. On one hand having them count down helps avoid you having to do much of the quick math. On the other hand, especially in the beginning, those mile markers are so big. The distance between every marker only just seems to slowly grow. On we pedal.
Rochford
Our first stop of the day brings us to the lovely town of Rochford. This town has just about everything including a mall, a bar, and a university. Well.... only one of these things is only what it says it is. The rest is a great tribute to a small town having some fun. We stopped by the mall which is more or less a convenience nick/nack store. A well earned Dr. Pepper and some shade later. We got ready to roll out of town, but before we do, I want to give you a couple notes on enjoying Rochford to the fullest. Right next to the Rochford mall is it's university. I encourage you to stop on by and see if you can learn anything. The other note is about the Rochford bar, the Moonshine Gulch. This place has its own local mythology. A key part of that mythology is its business hours. The business hours are either yes or no and have a notorious unpredictability to them. Perhaps you'll swing though town and find the place open. If so, stop on in and tell me how it was. The thing to remember is that if the place is closed, the lady who runs the mall won't be able to help you. She doesn't know either. Should you forget my words, she has a sign on the cash register to give you a friendly reminder.
Hill City
As we continued to roll through the hills the size of the task ahead of us became apparent, but the scenery could not be beat. We rolled through large groves of pine, spruce, birch, oak and more. We rolled along babbling mountain brooks. I found myself looking into those flowing waters hoping for a glimpse of a trout or other water creatures. The longest climb up was about seven miles, but that was then followed by a lovely descent into Hill City. I haven't been to Hill City since the summer of 2014 when I came through with a traveling children's theater company. In many ways it was a flashback, and many delightful memories of working with local kids in putting on show made me smile bringing reprieve to my tired legs.
Mile 60
I will not lie to you. The climb out of Hill City was tough. Not because it was steep, but because it was LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONNNNNNNNNNG. This climb is approximately 13 miles uphill without a break. It just keeps going and going and going. At this point it was mid afternoon and the sun was most definitely overhead. In a previous post I've talked about how much I enjoy the quiet that riding brings. However, this climb was not bringing that joy. This climb was making me question a lot of choices. Why was I here? Why did I think this would be fun? Would it be faster to turn around? On and on the questions droned. Would it ever end?
Mile 51
Cue Chariots of Fire. At this point we reached the top of the climb. Conveniently you roll through a tunnel under the highway and with the Crazy Horse monument to your left nobly and boldy pointing the way forward, you feel the slope of the trail switch from uphill to downhill. What a moment that was. I would be lying if I were to say that I did not cheer audibly. Here it was the longest climb of the day, and I had made it to the top. I was assured that from here forward it was more or less down hill. HUZZAH!
Custer
True to form it was largely downhill. The Southern hills are different from the Northern hills. Here the tree groves aren't as prevalent, and you can look across sweeping valleys in between the slowly thinning hill rises. We rolled into the great town of Custer and finally had some real lunch. I really wanted to go to the Black Hills Burger and Bun Company. I've been wanting to go there since the last time I was in the Hills. SIX YEARS AGO. Believe me, that's a long time to wait for a burger. BUT I was to be THWARTED again! Turns out they didn't have Saturday evening hours. Now I'm not bitter about it. Okay... maybe a little. However, next time I WILL be successful. If you go feel free to tell me about how amazing it is. I'll just be pining over here on the East side of the state. Did get supper at a pretty great Mexican joint called Begging Burrito. They're worth checking out as well. Like I said. Not bitter at all. Nope. Not even a little.
Sheep Canyon
After Custer the ride really shifted towards finishing. We rolled through more small towns including Pringle, but we were mostly racing the sun. Now firmly in the Western sky, the sun slowly was headed for bed. Our hope is that we would arrive in Edgemont before it did so. As a result I don't have a lot to share about the miles South of Custer. If I ever go again, that will have to change. One major highlight, and perhaps my favorite part of the trail, was Sheep Canyon. Located just south of US18 and near mile marker 14, sheep canyon is a sweeping canyon cut through by the old railroad bed. We came through right at sunset and wow. I found myself thinking "not fair nature" Not fair, but yet how grand and generous that I get to experience this moment with great friends. These words are not nearly enough to encompass all its wonder. I guess you'll just have to go see it yourself.
10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1
Mile Marker 1 had a phrase that I thought was really fitting. Enjoy the journey. After a long and grueling day. Here was a subtle reminder that even in these moments of fatigue there is joy, and that joy should be celebrated.
Edgemont
And so we rolled into town right as the sun dipped below the now glowing horizon. We met the rest of the group at the local Bar and Gril. Fittingly its name is Victory. Originally named in celebration of the close of WWII. However on this day I felt it was name in celebration of our victory. We shared stories of the day and much over burgers, a beer, and each other's company.
May you enjoy all your journeys.
'till next time.
-Matt
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